Along the approximately 25-kilometer Asian coastline of the Bosphorus, stretching from Üsküdar to Anadolu Kavağı, addresses where plant-based diners can sit and eat a meal are predominantly concentrated in Üsküdar and Kuzguncuk. According to VeganIstanbul.com data, options do not entirely disappear north of Kuzguncuk, but their number decreases and they are limited to specific dishes in establishments with mixed menus.
The Şehir Hatları ferry line from Üsküdar to Anadolu Kavağı traverses the Anatolian coast of the Bosphorus with eight piers. When reading this line as a food and drink map, an imbalanced picture emerges.
Üsküdar and Kuzguncuk
The best-known plant-based address on the coast is within a sports club. Telezzüz is located at Kuşbakışı Caddesi No:16, on the Koç Group Sports Club grounds in Kuzguncuk. The MICHELIN Guide lists the restaurant in the "Vegan" category and has awarded it a MICHELIN Green Star. The chef is Bahtiyar Büyükduman. As the venue is within the sports club grounds, ID check is required at the entrance, and reservations are necessary. Closed on Sundays.
Kuzina Ev Yemekleri (Üryanizade Sokak No:1B) operates with a daily menu focused on olive oil dishes. The menu changes daily. Open only from 12:00 to 17:00, closed on Sundays.
Hatice Anne Ev Yemekleri (Kuzguncuk Çarşı Caddesi No:4) also offers a daily home-cooked meal menu. Since the menu changes daily, plant-based options vary each day. Butter, yogurt, or meat broth may be used in dishes. Ingredients should be inquired about at the establishment on the same day.
Fo&Co (Tufan Sokak No:6/B) and Galette Kuzguncuk (İcadiye Caddesi No:45) are bakery-cafes that carry one or two vegan and gluten-free products in their displays. Their entire menus are not plant-based.
In central Üsküdar, plant-based options come from Middle Eastern cuisine. arze (Uncular Caddesi 32A), falafelci ev (Otopark Arkası Sokak No:6C), and Kudüs Han (Selamiali Efendi Caddesi 43A) make it possible to construct a plant-based meal with falafel, hummus, tabbouleh, and mezze. All three have mixed menus. The ingredients of sauces should be inquired about when ordering. arze is closed on Mondays.
Beylerbeyi and Çengelköy: A distinct gap
Beylerbeyi and Çengelköy have a dense cluster of cafes and restaurants. However, there is no registered establishment focused on plant-based nutrition. Establishments like Nunu Organic, Maia, Seval Pastanesi, and La Vie Praline are not in the vegan or vegetarian categories.
This does not mean that no plant-based dishes can be found in these districts. However, a single salad or mezze is not considered a defined vegan meal.
Kandilli: Labeled options in mixed menus
There is no entirely vegan restaurant in Kandilli. In contrast, İoki Kandilli (Kandilli Caddesi No:11/A) clearly marks vegan dishes on its menu with a symbol. Wakame salad, house salad, edamame, spring roll, sweet potato tempura, kappa maki, avocado maki, veggie roll, and steamed rice are labeled this way.
Two caveats are necessary. First, the kitchen is primarily based on seafood and meat; vegan dishes are prepared in a mixed kitchen. Second, the menu also features a gluten-free symbol, but only one dessert is marked this way. Celiac patients should specifically ask about soy sauce content and the risk of cross-contamination.
Borsa Restaurant Kandilli is located at Vaniköy Caddesi No:12, within the Adile Sultan Kasrı. The restaurant, listed in the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand, offers Turkish cuisine; a vegetarian meal can be created from olive oil dishes and mezze. Since dishes are not labeled vegan, ingredients should be inquired about. Also, the kasır is elevated from the shore; walking to the hilltop venue can be quite challenging.
Anadolu Hisarı: A chain and a patisserie
BigChefs Anadolu Hisarı (Küçüksu Caddesi No:4) is the most predictable option in the area due to the chain's menu having a separate "Vegan" section. Vegan burger, vegan schnitzel, and vegan lasagna are included in this section. The establishment is not entirely vegan.
The Pantry (Göztepe Sokak No:13/A) uses the phrases "vegan, gluten-free, refined sugar-free" in its self-promotion. However, this is not a restaurant. It is a small cafe with three tables inside, primarily offering bakery and dessert products, and serving one or two dishes on some days. It does not guarantee a filling meal for every visit.
From Kanlıca to Anadolu Kavağı
In Kanlıca, Çubuklu, Paşabahçe, Beykoz, and Anadolu Kavağı, no registered restaurant focused on plant-based nutrition was found near the coast. The dining structure of the region is based on fish restaurants, breakfast spots, and scenic cafes.
Conclusion
The Anatolian coast of the Bosphorus is one of Istanbul's most visited weekend routes. Despite this, options focused on plant-based cuisine along the route are limited.
North of Kuzguncuk, plant-based diners turn to specific dishes in establishments with mixed menus such as İoki, Borsa, and BigChefs. In the section extending from Kanlıca to Anadolu Kavağı, finding a reliable main meal is difficult. Those going to Anadolu Kavağı would be safer bringing their own food or eating beforehand along the way.